Thailand Travel Itinerary 2014 - Part 2

Day 2 - Arrived Bangkok 11.40 pm local time [if no delay] and there is about 7-8 hours from time before catching the train to Chiangmai.

We took the Special Express Train 13 from Bangkok to Chiangmai the same day we arrived at Bangkok.  You can choose to stay over in Bangkok for a night but there isn't much you can do if your intention is to visit Chiangmai first.

Train Fare Bangkok-Chiangmai - Class 2 with sleeping berth.  Lower Berth [for women] - 881 THB and Upper Berth [for men] -  791 THB.  Notes - lower berth is very spacious, comfortable and clean. 

Departure Time [Bangkok] - 7.35 pm same day we arrived in Bangkok

Arrival Time [Chiangmai] - 9.55 am on the next day

Similarly as in the Butterworth/Bangkok travel sector, dinner and breakfast are available upon ordering but it cost more than if you pack your food.  The meals available in the train costs about 110 to 210 THB depending on the menu you choose.  Notes - By the way, you can get nice food at the food court of Bangkok Railway Station which ranges from 40 THB.  They have economy rice, fried rice, pig trotter rice, western food and even a halal food section.  A cup of coffee only costs 10 THB.  

Before the train left Bangkok, we had a nasty experience of train coaches banging at each other.  We were told that it is the way to hook up the coaches. Why is this so, I don't know. 

Dinner time and sleeping berths preparation is similar as in my post on Thailand Travel Itinerary Part 1 [click here].

Day 3 - The train arrived Chiangmai  on time even though there was a slight delay with the banging of coaches in Bangkok.  The sky is bright at around 5-6 am. If you are able to wake up then, you can freshen up, eat the breakfast you brought along and enjoy the beautiful scenery of forest, mountains, hills, lowland areas, settlements and padi fields along the northern route.  It could be a little misty but the view is nice, something different from the concrete jungles of developed towns and cities.

 

 

Upon arrival at San Kampaeng Railway Station, Chiangmai, we walked out of the railway station to take a Tuk-Tuk to our hotel at Thapae Road which costs 60 THB, the journey is about 10-15 minutes depending on the traffic.  You can get a better price if you catch the Tuk-tuk outside the railway station.

 

 

 

The hotel we stayed at Chiangmai is:

MY HOME PLACE HOTEL

9 Soi 6 Thapae Road

Muang Chiangmai

50100 Chiangmai

Tel: [66]53-276468 Fax: [66]53-206917

Email: Homeplacehotel2556@hotmail.com

Facilities - air-conditioning, cale TV, bathroom, laundry, free Wifi, Daily

The standard double bed room is quite small but clean with a fridge and bathroom is spacious.  For the price they charged [590 THB] during peak season it's reasonably good cos' of it's location as you can easily get to Chiangmai Old City by foot just across the main road [2 minutes walk].  It is also a good place to stay if you intend to watch the Loy Krathong procession as it is just about 10 metres to Thapae Road where the procession passes through.

Notes - before leaving home, you can go to the transport department [JPJ for Malaysia] to obtain an International driving licence for RM 150.00 valid for 1 year to drive around Thailand.  After check-in to hotel, you can walk around the area to find a shop which has motorbikes/cars to rent.  The charges range from 100-250 THB with/without insurance per day.  The shop will provide you with 2 crash helmets and raincoats.  Of course, you can choose to see the city by foot or go on the red song taew or Tuk-tuk in Chiangmai.  Walking around the old city is easy if you are used to walking.  Get a Chiangmai road map and you will not lost your way in the city.

After checking in [we booked our room through Agoda before departing Penang] with the map guide, we walked from the hotel cross over to Thapae Gate which is the East Gate of Chiangmai Old City along Mun Muang Road on the right then turn down to Sriphoom Road along the Chang Puak Gate [North Gate side].   You will first come across Wat Chiang Man [click here].

This is a straight road [all the inner roads surrounding the four gates of Chiangmai Old City are straight long roads].  You can either walk along the five foot ways or along the pavements  of the canals that surround the city which is in a square shape.  We were looking for a popular Khao Soi Noodle stall which is situated between 2 Wats [Wat Kuankama and Wat Monthien].  You can also hop onto a red song thaew or Tuk-Tuk to get to the place.  Tuk-tuk charges more than red song thaew.

Wat Kun Kha Ma [Horse Temple], Sriphoom Road
Chang Puak Gate

Wat Monthien [Dragon Temple] Sriphoom Road,
Chang Puak Gate

This Khao Soi stall is a small shack of restaurant is on the left of Horse Temple with several tables under a small pavilion called Grandma's Restaurant [Khao Soi Khun Yai] popular with locals for its northern-style noodles.  It is a family business that has been operating for about 16 years. They Khao Soi comes with chicken, pork or beef and a plate of preserved Kiam Chye, cut big onions, fried chilli paste and a slice of lime with some crispy fried noodles].  Of course, the usual condiments like sugar, fish sauce, chilli flakes and pickled green/red chillies.

The combination of the noodles with the kiam chye, onions and lime is surprisingly good.  The soup is not too creamy but spicy enough.  Don't add the chilli paste if you can't take spicy food cos' it is really 'hot'.

We had 3 bowls with different meat and a longan cold drink. This meal costs 135THB.  I think each bowl costs only 35 THB.  This is definitely worth trying for the taste and price.

Khao Soi Egg Noodles, Chiangmai

Khao Soi [Egg Noodle Curry] - rich and savoury yellow curry noodle soup, served with shredded preserved mustard leaves, big onions, slice of lime and extra chilli paste.  The egg noodles are of the flat variety with a small portion of deep-fried crispy noodles on top.  You can choose either, pork, chicken or beef Khao Soi.  The portion is quite small and you may need to order an extra bowl.

After this hearty meal, we walk to Wat Kun Kha Ma [Horse Temple] [click here] and Wat Monthien [Dragon Temple]  [click here] which is just on the left and right side of the stall. 

Both these 2 Wats are worth looking at as each has its' own unique structure and history.

Across the road opposite Wat Monthien, there is another very old Wat Lok Mo Lee [click here]  along Maninopharat Road which is worth taking a look.  There is a Thousand Arms Goddess of Mercy on the left side of the entrance.  2 big white elephants, a golden and silver tree on the right and left of the main Wat temple.  Along the side of the Wat is a row of 12 zodiac animals. Inside the Wat, the ceiling is very attractive with fine cravings  and on the side walls are cravings about the teachings of Buddha.

Wat Lok Molee, Maninoppharat Road, Chang Puak Gate

After visiting these 3 Wats which are all nearby, we walked back to the old city area to Inthawarorot Road which is the place of 3 Wise Men's Monument [3 Kings' Monument] [click here] and a very unique gold and black coloured small Wat Inthakin [Temple of the Navel of the City] [click here].

3 Kings' Monument

Wat Inthakin, Inthawarorot Road

At the corner of this road opposite the 3 Wise Men's Monument is an ice and dessert cafe [La Mango Cafe].  Here they have many kinds of snow ice shavings that comes with different kinds of fruits, coffee etc.  We ordered a Mango Pudding Snow Ice and a Soybean Milk Snow Ice with Mixed Fruits.  Each costs 85 THB.  Portion is quite big but does melts away fast.  Compared to Taiwanese Mango Shaved Ice, this is not that good but still worth trying just to cool down the body system.  The weather is still really hot in November.  Cos' of the Asean Yee Peng Festival during our visits, most of the places have lots of lanterns on display which brightens up the place.

Lanterns on display for Yee Peng Festivals

Mango Snow Ice 

After the above adventures and food the whole afternoon, we were back to the hotel for rest and freshen up, ready to search for our dinner at the popular Cowgirl's Pig Trotter Rice stall which is at Chang Puak Gate, along Maninoppharat Road where they have street food at night.  Getting there is easy with the Tuk-Tuk or Song Taew for 20 THB per person.  We went on a rented motorbike or you can still walk there if you still have the energy after the whole afternoon's sightseeing by foot.

The dinner here is very reasonably price.  We had 2 plates of rice with the braised meat and 1/2 a duck egg, 2 plates plain rice, 1 plate of braised pig trotters and 1 bottle of drinking water that comes with 2 cups of ice cubes with lots of pickled mustard leaves [as much as you like].  This meal costs only 175 THB which is very cheap and it tasted good.  I like the shredded pickled mustard leaves which is very crunchy, not too salty, sourish or sweet.  This stall is worth trying but go early around 6 pm to avoid long queue.

Cowgirl's Pig Trotter Rice

Maninopharat Road Street Food Area

Chang Puak Gate

Chiangmai.

[the stall is called Cowgirl cos' the lady manning the stall wears a cowboy hat]

After dinner, we took a stroll back to the same direction as in the afternoon and discovered that the 3 Kings' Monument [aka 3 Wise Men Monument], plain lanterns during daytime and small Wat were all lighted up beautifully.  Even the canals surrounding have water fountains that look beautiful.

Knowing that there are more lanterns on display at the four gates of Chiangmai Old City, we went to each one of them to see the various lanterns and of course taking as many photos as possible.  It is really awesome and worthy experience to visit Chiangmai during the Loy Krathong festival that last for almost a week with 3 nights of street processions with different floats each night. Students were seen lighting wax candles and placing them all around the ruins of the four gates. Apart from lantern displays, there is the lighting of Kong Ming Lantern at all these places during this time.  The sky is beautiful with sparkling lights like blinking stars.  The price of the lantern ranges from 30 - 60 THB.  Definitely worth lighting it especially when this activity is banned in your country.

Click here to see Thailand Travel Itinerary 2014 Part 1
Click here to see more on Loy Krathong/Yi Peng Festival Chiangmai 2014
Click here to see more on Wat Phrathat, Doi Suthep

Click here to see more on Bhubing Palace, Chiangmai

Thailand Travel Itinerary 2014 - Part 1

Day 1 - Started my Thailand holiday trip with my hubby who can speak a little Thai.  Since our trip is about 18 days, I will share our itinerary and travel tips/news in parts for easier reading and reference which won't be too overwhelming.  It would be good reference for those travelling alone or in twos.

We travelled direct to Chiangmai in time for Loy Krathong festival on 5 November but a short stopover at Bangkok for several hours until the Bangkok/Chiangmai train departs at 7.35 pm.  Travelling directly to Chiangmai from Butterworth takes 2 nights, that is Butterworth to Bangkok [about 17 hours] then Bangkok to Chiangmai [15 hours].  Do expect to encounter some delays on the way.

We took the Express International Train 36 which is actually the SRT Train [Siam Rail Transport] from Butterworth Railway Station.

Train 36 schedule from Butterworth to Bangkok [stopping at several stations on the way for a short while].  Notes - train may delay due to railway track or weather problems.  Our train was delayed at Hatyai for 1 and 1/2 hours thus arriving only at 1.00 pm.

Train Fare BW-BKK - Class 2 with sleeping berth.  Lower Berth  is Ringgit 111.90 and Upper Berth is Ringgit 103.90.  Notes - lower berth is very spacious, comfortable and clean.  Sheets and pillow cases are washed after use.

Departure Time [Butterworth] - 2.00 pm on 2 November 2014

Arrival Time [Bangkok] - 11.40 am on  3 November 2014

Notes - Butterworth railway station has been demolished and rebuilding, there was no proper waiting area for passengers, poor condition of passage way to get to the platform and  coach. It could be rather inconvenient if you have much luggage or especially when you travelled to Butterworth with the ferry as the routes leading to the platform is not smooth at all.  Until the station is ready, the old and disabled should not choose to travel by train from Butterworth.  Wonder what happens when it rains or during the night? Hopefully the new station will be ready soon.  You would understand what I meant from the photos below.

 

 

 

Once you embarked in the coach, the attendant [very friendly man] will give you the Arrival and Departure papers to fill up for immigration purpose when the train stops at Padang Besar. The attendant will also show you the dinner menu.  You have a choice of 4 set menus and each set costs 170 Bahts [RM17.00].  He accepts both Malaysian and Thai currencies.

 

 

 

A set menu consists of rice, chicken/vegetable dish, fried chicken, fruits and hot beverage [coffee/tea/milo].  Dinner is served immediately after immigration clearance.  The dinner wasn't that good for the price but lots of fruits were given in this Malaysia/Hatyai sector. We were given Dukung, orange and bananas.  Compared to Taiwan Rice Bento you get at the railway stations in Taiwan which costs only 65 - 80 TWD, it isn't that worthy.  Notes - this schedule may changed overtime but you can always order your meals from the attendant [fried rice].  You can even bring your own dinner if you don't mind that it will be cold.  But when you are hungry, any thing edible tastes good. 

It takes about 1 hour for immigration clearance and dinner on coach before the train departs for Hatyai.  Immigration clearance at Padang Besar is hassle-free and fast, you need not cart down your luggage.  Just bring with you your passport will do.  Took some nice shoots along the Malaysian route, one thing I like travelling by train, you can get to see places too.

The train should arrived at Hatyai by 6.30 pm and automatically the time changed [difference of an hour].  Notes - in our case, the train delayed departure from Hatyai for 1 and 1/2 hours.

Notes - it's a long journey, I suggest you bring Poker cards/books/games to pass time if you can't sleep early.  The sleeping berths will be prepared immediately after dinner around 8 pm.  The attendant is very efficient doing the task - less than 5 minutes he can finished 2.
Once you cross the Thailand border, there will be people coming in to the coach to exchange currency.  The rate is slightly higher.  There will be attendants coming to ask you for breakfast orders at the same time.  The breakfast set costs 110-140 THB which consists of sandwiches, sausages, orange juice and hot drink.  Notes - suggest that you buy some sandwiches/buns/biscuits for your breakfast instead of ordering from the train restaurant.  Of course, you can order coffee from them at 20 THB.  Sometimes they charged 30 THB but the actual price is 20 THB.
As there was a delay, train reached Hua Hin for a short interval [10 minutes] at 8 am instead of 6.30 am.  Notes - When you reached Hua Hin, you can go to the coach entrance, there will be people selling hot congee or other breakfast food at the station for only 20 THB, too.

Almost all railway stations along the Hatyai/Bangkok routes are old and some do have food vendors.  It's about 5 hours journey from Hua Hin to Bangkok.  At around 6.30 am, the sleeping berths are converted back to seats for them to serve breakfast before the train reaches Hua Lamphong Railway Station, Bangkok at 11.40 am. Due to the delay at Hatyai, we arrived at about 1.00 pm.  

Bangkok is rather humid and warm in November. The railway station is packed with tourists and locals.   Everywhere seems busy with people walking around, sitting and even sleeping.  You can have late breakfast or early lunch at the station's food court.  Prices are quite reasonable and convenient.  Hot coffee costs only 10 THB.

Once you bring down your luggage, you can leave your big luggage at the railway station since you have about 7-8 hours in Bangkok before you take the train to Chiangmai which leaves at 7.35 pm so that you go roam around the vicinity.  They charged about 50 THB for 1 bag. Notes - You can also go for a shower at the railway station toilets  for 20 THB before you get to the coach for Chiangmai. I suggest that you bring along a small towel and soap in your personal travelling bag for convenience.
Since you have several hours before departing Bangkok, you can exit the station from the side door to get to Chinatown at Yaowarat Road which is nearby the station.
Here you can have lunch and also buy some food for dinner, drinks and sandwiches for breakfast too instead of ordering from the train restaurant which costs about 170 THB per set.  Advisable to do this cos' the train may be delayed and you will have to pay more for your meals from the train restaurant. However, you can order some fried rice [Khao Pad] for 40 THB from them.
With the several hours we had:
- lunch at Chinatown ferry pier, that is at the end of Yaowarat Road.

- see the Golden Buddha Temple and Kuan Yim Temple along the way if you like.  These places is packed with people.

Our lunch at a local Thai economy rice shop [2 plates of rice with 3 dishes and 2 cups of ice cubs with a bottle of drinking water costs 110 THB.

- After lunch, we did some light shopping for snacks like cashew nuts, pistachio nuts, pickled fruits and lots more from the shops in Chinatown if you don't mind carting them to the train.
Along the streets, there are street vendors selling fruits and ice cold drinks like fresh orange and fresh pomegranate juices from 40 THB per 250-300 ml bottle. 

We also bought 1 big seedless guava for 25 THB from a fruit stall along the walkway which is good and cheap.  The vendor will cut it for you upon request.  We bought a packet of cashew nuts [250 gm] for 100 THB from a Chinese grocery shop [Siang Heng Hua Kee Ltd] but you can get it cheaper in the market but be aware it may weigh less.

-  Since it is dinner time when the train leaves Bangkok, we bought at Chinatown earlier since we didn't want to order food from the coach restaurant.  There is a Hongkong style noodle shop at the beginning of Yaowarat Road, Chinatown [very near to the railway station] selling duck meat rice and noodles.  We packed duck meat rice, per pack is only 60 THB which is very cheap for the portion given and its delicious and tasty.  The rice portion is quite big with boneless meaty duck meat, cucumber or boiled mustard leaves and sauce.  Diagonally opposite this shop is a 7-Eleven outlet where you can get some drinking water, buns, sandwiches for the next day's breakfast.  The prices for buns and sandwiches from 7-Eleven are very reasonable.   That is if you don't want to order breakfast from the train and just in case there is a delay.  [This is a must do if you are travelling with a tight budget].

-  After all these done, we went back to the railway station for our shower before the train departs for Chiangmai.
We bought the Bangkok/Chiangmai train tickets through a friend in Hatyai.  I supposed you can book online for this sector on a safer side just in case you can't get it from Bangkok when you arrived during the peak season.  Many people travelling to Chiangmai in early November for the Loy Krathong festival which is celebrated on a grand scale annually.
Click here to see Thailand Travel Itinerary 2014 Part 2 [Bangkok/Chiangmai]
Click here - See More on Thailand Food
Click here - Chiangmai Street Food
Click here - What To Eat in Chiangmai?